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SALEM, OR ©
2007 Erin
Volheim and Oregon Tilth www.tilth.org.
Don Tipping and his partner, Kimberly Brown of Seven Seeds Farm
in the Williams, Oregon know the best way to make two ends meet
is to join them in a circle.
Seven Seeds
is a living demonstration that the whole systems approach to farming
works. Don is practicing a melding of biodynamics and permaculture,
yielding a system that is ecologically sound and financially viable.
A central aspect
of biodynamics is that the farm in its entirety is seen as a living
organism. What you will see at Seven Seeds is a place full of life
where each diverse component is working together to form the greater
whole. On this 100-year-old homestead, there are five acres of edibles;
half in annuals and the rest in perennials, along with ducks, geese,
chickens and sheep with a forest under restoration in the periphery.
The fields are bisected by gently sloping swales which are orchard
strips and hedgerows to encourage native pollinators. In addition,
the swales help direct winter floods which could damage the over-wintering
biennial seed crops and perennials.
By growing seed,
the farm retains most of the carbon they produce, because they are
only exporting a small amount of the biomass. The poultry feeds
from seed crop residues, low quality seed and discarded fruits like
tomatoes, squash and melons. The sheep are on a long-term pasture
rotation and assist with not only grazing down the cover crops prior
to the seed crop, but also the stalks left behind after seed harvest.
Don and Kimberly work to support these living elements in the spirit
of interdependence. They in turn support their family.
Don has lived
solely off of farming for the past 12 years and has been a seed
producer for the last 10 of those. He is one of the originators
of the Siskiyou Seeds Co-op that he hopes will grow into a network
of farmers and seed producers who coordinate isolation plots and
share equipment.
The first seed
crops they grew were Chinese cabbage and lemon cucumbers. "Brassicas
in particular," Don notes, "are super easy as a seed crop."
He recommends them for the beginner (except biennial cauliflower
which needs specific growing conditions). In comparison, cucumbers
are more difficult. That first year they had a pile of lemon cucumbers
four feet high, ten feet wide, and fifty feet long. It took hours
of labor to cut them open, scoop-out the seeds, ferment, clean and
dry the seeds.
Along the way, they have learned which crops suit their situation
more. Beans take up a lot of land, and required many labor hours
for weeding. Beans are, however, easy to process.
Seeds of Change
is the first seed company he started with. They are unique because
they have 45 different small seed producers growing for them, whereas
other companies like Territorial and Johnny's grow some of their
own, and then fill in the blanks from larger seed companies.
During their
second year of seed production, Seven Seeds started growing for
Abundant Life, then later Fedco, Renee's, and Turtle Tree. Now they
have as many contracts as they can handle. As a result, they have
found ways to sub-contract with other farmers, sowing the seeds
of economic viability in the Applegate valley.
Don's reputation
allows him to start the year with financial backing through many
of his contracts. Much like a CSA, Don has their support for most
situations and has limited risk for natural "disasters,"
but no liability for seed trials that fail. The greatest risk is
a seed crop that doesn't pass a certain germination standard. Sometimes
the crop can be harvested, but if not, then it was grown at a loss.
In the spring
of 2005, when Monsanto bought Seminis - the world's largest developer,
grower and marketer of vegetable and fruit seeds - a giant biotech
shadow was cast across the land. Although, some of the seed companies
still buy from them, the FEDCO seed cooperative dropped Seminis
as a source. I asked Don whether he felt the buy-out of Seeds of
Change by M & M/Mars had in turn affected its quality. He felt
that their organic standards and ethics were still high, and in
some ways the extra financial support has enabled them to do more
"in-the-ground-research" of new varieties which he finds
engaging.
"Seed growing
is one way which allows the land to express its individuality. Over
succeeding generations of growing seed, the plants become tuned
into our climate, pests, soils, rainfall, winds, and pollinators,
to reveal their greatest potential. We are there to help coax them
through selection, roguing or intention crossing.
"I have
lots of personal breeding projects, like an intermating Rainbow
Chard 'grex' (diverse stable hybrid) and a purple tatsoi, and a
purple, wire worm resistant French Breakfast radish. These are ways
to uncover the mystery of interplay between genetics, soils, farmer,
pollinators and market preferences."
Since organic
seed growing is a burgeoning niche, Don thinks it has resulted in
a great feedback loop between company representatives and the grower.
"One year, we grew a variety of cherry tomato and a Roma. In
the end, we found that cherry tomatoes produced an exponentially
greater amount of seed than the Roma. So we made bank on the cherry,
but a loss on the Roma." They mentioned this, and the next
year the company changed the pricing differential.
Despite the
responsive communication, Don finds seed production a little impersonal,
"UPS comes and takes it away. I would almost never have to
leave the farm." That's why like any diverse living system,
they are not only feeding themselves and the farm animals, but also
growing for the Siskiyou Cooperative CSA and local farmer's markets.
"I like the one-on-one I get when someone buys some fresh raspberries
or strawberries from us," he remarked.
To avoid being
burdened with work at the end of the year, the farm takes a seasonal
approach, timing maturation so everything doesn't happen at once.
Radishes go to seed early, then brassicas will seed in mid-summer
when it's a slower time on the farm. Crops like winter squash are
ready in early fall before the fall rains.
A well-thought
out approach has allowed him to keep the same-size work-force throughout
the season instead of everyone being slammed in the fall. Don prefers
crops like Alliums because they are timed just right for a Southern
Oregon climate. Alliums are planted in the late fall when the rains
come, and are usually ready for harvest when the rain ends.
Another key
aspect to his success is multiple harvesting for different uses.
For example, with calendula the first harvest of flowers is used
for medicine and the subsequent one for seed.
Don feels that
seed production is more secure. "When you plant 3,000 heads
of lettuce for market you aren't guaranteed a definite income, because
many won't be market quality, maybe 80 percent will make it to pack-out,
even though you can eat them at home. Whereas with a seed crop all
are success, and they'll even pay 10 percent more if you improve
the seed quality by selecting out poor performing plants."
Other benefits are allowing your friends to come and pick a bunch
of tomatoes to can, that is if they scoop-out and leave the seeds
behind.
The big learning
curve on the farm has been mechanization. Through the Siskiyou Seed
Co-op, Don cooperatively owns an Allis Chamlers All-Crop 60, which
is actually a combine that they run as a stationary threshing machine.
This machine makes a difference on crops like chicory which are
hard to crush by hand, but with the All-crop you just toss it in
with a pitchfork and it reveals the seed. Still it doesn't mean
he can just throw it in and leave the scene, it requires interaction
for quality control.
Seed saving was once a natural priority for survival. Archaeobotanical
studies in the last decade have shown that seed saving started actually
before people started living in villages, not after.
Times have certainly
changed and organic seed production of heirloom varieties and other
local standards hold an even greater importance for preserving our
food's genetic heritage. Seed production and saving for any farmer
can diversify that farm's income and put seed variety control back
in the hands of regional farmers. Fortunately, Don Tipping is one
of many small organic farmers reviving this ancient tradition, one
seed at a time.
Erin Volheim
lives and writes in the Little Applegate Valley of Southern Oregon.
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